A TRIP ROUTE
WORTH REMEMBER
The close relations between Poland and Lithuania date back to the Middle Ages. The union of the Crown of the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was initiated by the union in Krewo in 1385, confirmed in subsequent documents and finally established by the act of the Union of Lublin in 1569, creating a common state - the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Both countries were connected by the person of the ruler. It was the Grand Duke of Lithuania Jogaila (Władysław II), who, in exchange for the throne of Poland, undertook the baptism and Christianization of Lithuania and marrying the Queen of Poland, Jadwiga Andegaweńska. Władysław II Jagiełło started the Jagiellonian dynasty, which sat on the Polish throne for 187 years.INTERESTING STORIES
Relations between the two countries have not always been correct. The formation of the Lithuanian state after World War I was dominated by the dispute with Poland over Vilnius. The conflict took the form of an armed struggle and it was only ended by a truce signed in Suwałki in which Poland, involved in the war with the Bolsheviks, agreed to grant Vilnius Lithuania. However, this agreement did not come into force due to the rebellion of the Lithuanian-Belarusian division under the command of General Żeligowski and the creation of a separate state of Central Lithuania. In 1922, this ephemeral creation was incorporated into Poland. The Lithuanian government was forced to move the capital to Kaunas, and the whole affair resulted in a complete break in relations with Poland by 1938.NTERESTING FACTS
Karaims are an ethnic and religious group of several thousand professing Karaimism. Its origins date back to the First Temple period, and as a separate religion it finally emerged at the turn of the 7th and 8th centuries from Judaism. A significant part of East European Karaims living in Lithuania, Ukraine, Poland and Russia is of Turkish origin. According to the history repeated in the Karaim communes of Trakai, Halicz and Karaim Lutsk, Prince Witold was to relocate to Lithuania. These displaced persons were to be 383 families from the cities of Czufut-Kale, Mangup and Sołchat in the Crimea. In fact, the origins of Karaim settlement in Trakai probably date back to the reign of Prince Olgierd and Kiejstut in Lithuania, i.e. the first half of the 14th century.WORTH SEEING
Located on the Baltic Sea, Palanga is the largest and most famous Lithuanian resort. The city owes it to its owners at the time, Tyszkiewicz, who built a marina, a pier and the first spa buildings here at the end of the 19th century. The health resort quickly became popular in Polish artistic circles. It was visited by Stanisław Witkiewicz, who painted maritime landscapes and designed a spa house in the Polish national style. The stained glass windows in the local church were made by the famous Żeleński workshop from Kraków, and designed by Jan's nephew - Stefan Matejko. Lucjan Rydel, Tadeusz Miciński and the painter Leon Wyczółkowski visited Palanga. Władysław Reymont finished writing the novel "Chłopi" in Palanga.THE BRIEF OF HISTORY
In Klaipeda in 1672, Krystian Kalkstein-Stoliński, a colonel of the Polish Crown Forces, one of the leaders of the anti-electoral opposition in Ducal Prussia and the spokesman of their union with Poland, was beheaded. Kalkstein was active in opposition to the Prussian Seyms, but, intimidated by repressions, he withdrew from political activity. The colonel's close relatives accused him of conspiracy and insulting the majesty of the prince elector. Kalkstein was put on trial and sentenced to life imprisonment. Thanks to the intervention of prince Bogusław Radziwiłł, the severe punishment was changed into five thousand thalers of the fine, which, however, he did not pay and fled to Warsaw. As a result of intrigues, he was kidnapped by agents of the Brandenburg Elector Frederick William, taken from Poland and executed. Krystian Kalkstein-Stoliński was the prototype of the figure of Colonel Krzysztof Dowgird, the main character of the Polish television series from the 1970s "Black Clouds".IT IS WORTH KNOWING
The famous Battle of Kircholm in 1605 was fought in Salaspilis, 25 km from Riga. It was one of the greatest victories of the First Republic of Poland, which took place during the Polish-Swedish war for Livonia in the years 1600-1611. The four-thousand-strong Polish-Lithuanian army under the command of the Lithuanian field hetman Jan Karol Chodkiewicz, mainly thanks to the use by the Lithuanian commander of the hussars as a breaking force, defeated the three times larger Swedish army under the command of Karol Sudermanski. Charles IX survived only thanks to reiter Henryk Wrede, who gave his horse to the monarch, and the Swedes were forced to withdraw from the siege of Riga.CURIOSITIES FROM THE PAST
The present-day Latvian capital, Riga, was within the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth for only 60 years (1561-1621) and it is difficult to find any significant traces of our presence here. In the church of St. Jakub, the ministry was performed and preached by Piotr Skarga. In 1582, King Stefan Batory from his residence in the castle used to come to this church for mass. Riga Castle was the residence of Polish governors, incl. Jan Hieronim Chodkiewicz and Prince Jerzy Radziwiłł, and on Polska Brama Street (Pole Gate) is the Church of Our Lady of Sorrows from 1784, which was erected due to the presence of Polish-speaking Catholics in the city. Meanwhile, in the House of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads, a peace treaty was signed in 1921, ending the Polish-Bolshevik war.May 2015
A trip to Lithuania and Latvia was like a trip to Ukraine, a kind of sentimental journey into the past. Traces of Polishness are visible here at every step, despite the government's strenuous actions to minimize them. History cannot be deceived, however, and over 400 years of shared history have been left with a permanent mark, even for a layman. Especially visible in Vilnius, which is no different from other Polish cities.
While preparing for the trip, I consciously gave up visiting Estonia. With only a week at my disposal, I decided that visiting all the interesting places in Lithuania and Latvia would completely fill my time. On the spot, it turned out that I was right. I chose the bus as a means of transport, which turned out to be the right decision. The only weak point of our trip was the weather. The forecasts were optimistic, but it always turned out that there are clouds instead of sun and rain instead of clouds. I felt it particularly hard during a trip to Kedainai, when it was raining hard all day.LITHUANIA
Trakai
Trakai is picturesquely situated among post-glacial lakes in the Vilnius Lake District. However, being the showcase of the first capital of Lithuania, the medieval castle was not what particularly caught my attention. Trakai is also inhabited by Karaites, brought from Crimea by the great prince Vytautas. Thanks to this, I could admire their original houses, kenesa, an old cemetery established in the 15th century, and also try traditional Karaim dishes.
Vilnius
Vilnius simply charmed me. Traces of Polishness are present here at every step. The city was the residence of as many as sixteen Polish kings, who at the same time had the title of Grand Dukes of Lithuania. In Vilnius you can find a lot of mementoes of Adam Mickiewicz, and the most unusual place is the Gate of Dawn with the Image of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn, whose cult was popularized by the poet in "Pan Tadeusz". However, what I remember most is the chance meeting at the Upper Castle of young Polish tourists, who at one point unfurled our flag, posing with it for a commemorative photo.
Kaunas
Kaunas welcomed me and said goodbye in the pouring rain. No city presents itself favorably in such conditions and it was the same in this case, which is a pity because Kaunas has a lot to offer. Although the market square or Arcgikatedra does not stand out with anything special, but the main city promenade - Vilnius street, full of picturesque facades and stylish cafes, made a great impression on me. The icing on the Kaunas cake is the House of Perkuna, which is a medieval tenement house in the flamed gothic style.
The monastery in Pažaislis
The Camaldolese monks, according to the rule, located their hermitages in places with water, forest and hills. This was also the case with the hermitage in Pažaislis, founded in the 17th century by the powerful Lithuanian Pac family. The hardships of poor access are fully compensated by the beautifully situated monastery and church, which was an architectural revelation in its time. I was most delighted with the delicious baroque interior of the temple, built on a regular hexagonal plan.
Open-air museum in Rumsiskes
In the guide I read that when visiting Rumsiskes, you can get to know building styles from all regions of Lithuania in one fell swoop. In fact, there was no exaggeration in that. Original huts, churches, mills, windmills, chapels and crosses from Aukštaitija, Vilnius Region, Suwałki Region, Samogitia and Klaipeda country filled the entire area of the open-air museum. An additional attraction was the opportunity to see a documentary filmed during my visit about Napoleon's expedition to Russia in 1812.
Kėdainiai
Unfortunately, I could not fully appreciate the charms of this beautiful town, which is the family seat of the Radziwiłł family, and immortalized in the pages of "The Deluge" by Henryk Sienkiewicz. Sightseeing with a parasal, a guide and a camera in hand is not the most pleasant, especially if you still have to be careful not to be splashed by passing cars. Despite this, Kėdainiai looked very dignified in the rain.
The Hill of Crosses
Visiting Kryžie kalnas, or the Hill of Crosses lying near Šiauliai, should not take more than two hours, and I had to spend half a day on it. However, when traveling by public transport, you have to take into account such inconveniences. The name "Hill of Crosses" is definitely exaggerated, while over 150,000 crosses collected in this place since the fall of the November Uprising make an amazing impression.
Baltic coast
On the Lithuanian coast of the Baltic Sea, I visited Klaipeda and Palanga. Lying at the mouth of the Danga River, Klaipeda is a city with German roots, and its showpiece is the ubiquitous half-timbered wall. On the other hand, I was pleasantly surprised by the Palanga summer resort. This picturesque resort, once called "Baltic Sea Zakopane", enchants with its wooden buildings from the 19th century. I was most impressed by the Amber Museum, located in the Tyszkiewicz Palace, the former owners of Palanga.
LATVIA
Riga
Multicultural Riga impresses even the greatest dilettantes. Its heart is the old town, full of bourgeois houses, merchant guild buildings, remains of defensive walls and stylish cafes in narrow cobbled streets. However, the Riga Art Nouveau architecture made the biggest impression on me. Many stylish tenement houses were designed by the Latvian architect Mikhail Eisenstein, father of the famous director Sergei.
Jurmala summer resort
Due to time constraints, I had to choose between Salaspilis, located near Riga, and the resort of Jurmala. I chose the second option, because in Salaspilis I would only see a modest monument commemorating the Battle of Kircholm. On the other hand, Jurmala Majori, located on the Gulf of Riga, charmed me with the old summer houses, and the spa walk on the wide, sandy beach was a very nice experience despite the dripping rain.
Gauja National Park
A visit to Gauja National Park is a trip into the past. The magnificent nature of the reserve is made even more attractive by the remains of medieval fortified castles, built by the Knights of the Sword and the Bishop of Riga, Albert. The walk along the Gauja River Valley was a real pleasure. However, I was most impressed by the breathtaking view of the Gauja river valley from the tower in Turaida.