A TRIP ROUTE
INTERESTING FACTS
About 34 thousand people officially live in Kazakhstan. people of Polish origin, but in fact there may be up to 100,000 of them. This state of affairs is the result of the deportation of Polish political exiles and the voluntary wave of displacement at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. The first were the Bar Confederates, and in the 19th century participants of national uprisings, some of which went to the north of the country and to the Wierny fortress, now Alma-Ata and Semipalatinsk, now Semey. Poles took part in research expeditions, incl. Zygmunt Sierakowski, and actively joined the economic and cultural life. After 17 September 1939, people living in the eastern territories of the Second Polish Republic, mainly Polish intellectual families, were deported to Kazakhstan. During the Second World War, Kazakhstan passed another wave of Poles, who, taking advantage of the amnesty announced by Stalin, headed from the labor camps to the south of the USSR. In 1942, some of them left the Soviet Union with General Anders' army, and some remained in Kazakhstan. The political transformations of the 1990s allowed for the revival of the awareness of Polish origin and the establishment of such organizations as the Union of Poles in Kazakhstan.IT IS WORTH KNOWING
One of the most famous Polish Catholic priests active in Kazakhstan was Władysław Bukowiński. This long-term prisoner of Soviet labor camps and an organizer of missionary expeditions throughout Soviet Central Asia certainly deserved to be called "the apostle of Kazakhstan". Father Bukowiński, who miraculously escaped death in the prison in Łuck, which was liquidated by the Soviets, helped exiles of various nationalities throughout his adult life and conducted pastoral activities for them. To do this, he voluntarily took the citizenship of the Soviet Union. At the end of his life, he came to Poland three times, where he met, among others, with card. Karol Wojtyła. He died in Karaganda in 1974. In 2016, his solemn beatification took place at the Cathedral of Our Lady of Fatima, Mother of All Nations in Karaganda. The figure of priest Władysław is especially close to me because his book "Memoirs of Kazakhstan" published in illegal circulation as the so-called "tissue paper" was my first purchase of this type, which I made in 1979.June 2017
Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, contrary to popular belief, have much more to offer than tourist guides write about it, which I found out on the spot. Thanks to the direct flight connection between Warsaw and Astana, I found myself on the spot quite quickly and efficiently, and then...I had to deal with myself.
The biggest obstacle in visiting these huge Central Asian countries are distances. As my usual pain was the short period of my stay, I got to the south of Kazakhstan by plane. When visiting attractive places, I traveled in a way that was tried a few years ago in Ukraine. I covered the distance between cities by night train, while moving and relaxing. I made the waiting for the train pleasant with night walks and hanging out in railway station bars, where, with a local drink, you could always find a local eager to chat.KAZAKHSTAN
Astana
I was only a few hours in the capital of Kazakhstan, Astana making use of the waiting time for the next flight. But even those few hours were enough to explore the modern center, which made a stunning impression on me. The most eye-catching is the Bayterek Tower, which is the city's showcase, but the Nurzhol Boulevard, Khan Shatyr or the Nur Astana mosque make an equally impressive impression. And to think that it all lies in the steppe right in the middle of Asia !
Shymkent
Shymkent was founded in the 12th century as a caravanserai to protect the city of Sajram on the Silk Road. One of the oldest human settlements in Transoxania, this place miraculously escaped the influence of Soviet architecture. Thanks to this, I was able to admire the numerous mausoleums that are the only remains of the city's former glory. It was here that Ahmad Jasawi was born, a poet and philosopher whose tomb I admired in Turkestan.
Turkestan
Turkestan is a real gem on the map of Kazakhstan. The city is famous for the UNESCO-listed Sufi mausoleum of Saint Khoxa, Ahmad Jasawi. The building was built in the 14th century during the reign of Tamerlane, it makes a stunning impression, especially in the rays of the afternoon sun. Near Turkestan, I also had the opportunity to admire the ruins of the city of Sauran, which provided bricks and tiles for the construction of the mausoleum.
Taraz and its surroundings
The city of Taraz was once an important center of trade on the Silk Road, but lost its importance after the Mongol invasion. Only numerous mausoleums remain after their former glory, the most beautiful of which are Karakan and Aisha Bibi. Taking this opportunity, I decided to visit the ruins of the Akyrtas Palace built in the 9th century nearby the city. The magic of the place and the picturesque surroundings made the trip successful despite the logistical difficulties.
Rock drawings
Petroglyphs have always aroused my curiosity, but I never knew so many in one place. The ones in Tamgaly, due to their beauty and diversity, have been inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List. On closer inspection, they seem quite simple and even primitive, but considering that the oldest of them were created over 4,000 years ago, they deserve much more respect.
Almaty
The former capital of Kazakhstan, Alma-Ata is today an industrial behemoth, which I treated, perhaps too unfairly, as an excellent starting point for getting to know the surrounding attractions. Ironically, the most interesting monument in the city is the Cathedral of the Ascension built during the tsarist times. The temple was already closed, but viewed from the outside in the rays of the setting sun made an amazing impression on me.
Sharyn Canyon
The Sharyn Canyon is often compared to the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River. I haven't seen the latter, but it seems a little exaggerated to me. Maybe the Kazakhs suffer from a mania for grandeur, but their canyon is also beautiful. I was most i mpressed by the Valley of Castles, a 2 km-long cluster of rocks and boulders with extremely fanciful shapes.
KYRGYZSTAN
Bishkek
The capital of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek is a typical post-Soviet city. There is a lot of monumental architecture here, but there is nothing to hang your eye on. Of all the places I visited in the city, I think the main mosque is the most memorable. And it's not because of its uniqueness, but because of an overly zealous follower of the prophet who listened too much about foreign agents and began to notice them in every foreign tourist who took a photo.
Buran Tower
On the way to Issyk Kul, I stopped in the village of Totmok to see the Buran Tower from the 11th century. Until our times, only this is what is left of the Balasagun, the capital of the once powerful Karachanid Khanate. The trip was worth the trouble, because standing alone, in the middle of the empty Chuy Valley, the tower makes an amazing impression, and the view from its peak to the Kyrgyz Mountains is breathtaking.
Issyk Kul lake
In the season, a lot of Kyrgyz, Kazakh and Russians rest at Lake Issyk Kul. As my place of stay, I chose the popular resort of Czołponata, which, however, made a depressing impression on me. Everything around looked like it was under constant renovation, and getting to the water was quite a feat, as most of the roads ran parallel to the shore. On the other hand, swimming in the lake with a view of the distant Tienshan mountain range was an amazing experience.